Review:
Full artical from St. Magazine April 2006

Cacophony of Delights

Scaldoni’s revised menu aims to please.

Pan-seared scallops with bacon vinaigrette, Carmelized Saku tuna with roasted prosciutto-wrapped fennel. Poached chicken breast stuffed with tiger prawns. Colorado lamb rack and petit filet mignon. Chocolate mousse parfait.

This is my idea of a ladies’ night out.

Scaldoni’s Restaurant & bar has some new additions to the menu and we thought it something worth checking out we were not disappointed.

Scaldoni’s is an unassuming place wedged in next to a pet shop in a strip mall. But the bustle faded as we walked into the entry and were greeted by the smells of rich coffee and garlic. The dining room was full but the tables were spaced enough that we didn’t feel crowded. Our table for four was cozy but didn’t force us to elbow each other. The mood was set with gentle music, scattered conversations, bright painting and hanging lanterns.

The afore-mentioned entrees can be ordered separately or you can choose the truly decadent option: A five- or seven-course sampler with entrees chosen by Jonny Divivo and Andrew Watterson, Scaldoni’s talented chefs. We settled in for a five-course feast with a house Merlot and hot, crusty rolls with herbed butter.

Then the decadence began.

"Each course was beautifully presented and was truly a sight to behold. The plates and platters were unique and decorative and the food was of the highest quality."

It was pure torture to sit long enough for the photographer to get a few shots of each plate. The aromas drifted about the table, blending in a cacophony of olfactory delights. When we finally got to dig in, we found that the taste was even better than the smells. Each plate was perfectly cooked and seasoned each was flavorful yet distinct from each other. The potato gnocchi with California Goat Cheese was creamy with a delicate garlic cream. No crocus was spared in the making of the saffron fettuccine. The cranberry pistachio cous cous made a sweet counterpoint to the pan-roasted duck breast.

I would continue but I am running out of appropriate adjectives. Let’s just say it was all fabulously delicious.

Just when we thought we couldn’t possibly eat another bite, out came the chocolate mousse parfait. The whipped cream had just a touch of liquor to add some class and the ladyfinger cookie at the bottom was buttery and practically melted in the mouth. And the mousse – the only way I can describe it is this: Think of a chocolate river from “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory” poured into a delicate goblet. That is how good it was. The coffee, too, was a delight – rich and full without being bitter – and it made a great counterpoint to the mousse.

Words failed me as I waddled to the door. All I could think to say was “delicious,” though that seemed a miled word to describe the moment. Not since the black-tie banquet at the Los Angeles Marriott or the 10-course wedding banquet in Chinatown have I left a meal so sated and happy.

By Kathryn van Roosendaal.